Travel CV: Discovering Downtown Napa

Downtown Napa pairs historic architecture with shops and restaurants, best seen on foot or by gondola.

Downtown Napa pairs historic architecture with shops and restaurants, best seen on foot or by gondola.

Mention Napa, and most people will imagine acres of vineyards and stylish estates, all awash in golden sunlight. But there’s another side to it that many travelers overlook: downtown Napa. There are many reasons to linger here. Think of it as an urban microcosm of Napa Valley, minus the crowds and constant need for reservations.

Downtown Napa serves up wine, food, art, and history with a side of grit. Its contrasts add up to a perfectly balanced getaway in an unpretentious setting. Grand Victorian buildings sit alongside urban art and former industrial warehouses. Downtown is entirely walkable, which makes tasting room hopping easy. You may even spot visitors cruising around on Rydables, which can only be described as stuffed animal scooters, embodying the Napa spirit of not taking itself too seriously. What downtown Napa does get serious about is wine and food. Casual restaurants like the retro-inspired Gott’s Roadside elevate the everyday burger and fries, and there’s also an outpost of the Culinary Institute of America here.

The historic Napa Mill anchors downtown Napa’s waterfront, where the city’s industrial past meets its lively present.

The historic Napa Mill anchors downtown Napa’s waterfront, where the city’s industrial past meets its lively present.

To get your bearings and learn about the city’s history, take a guided tour with Napa Kayak. You’ll paddle past the historic Napa Mill and learn how the riverfront evolved from an industrial hub with tanneries (such as the Napa Glove Factory) to a place where you may spot otters and, if you’re extra lucky, dolphins.

The Rail Arts District transforms former industrial buildings into canvases for large-scale murals.

The Rail Arts District transforms former industrial buildings into canvases for large-scale murals.

The area is, of course, synonymous with wine. Downtown Napa has more than 40 wine-tasting rooms and for the most part, reservations aren’t required. Simply walk in and sit down for a pour. New tasting rooms include Flora Springs Wine Lounge and Regusci Downtown, while architecture buffs will appreciate the saucy pedigree of Vintner’s Collective, showcasing wines from small, family-owned Napa wineries. The stone building dates back to 1875 and once housed a saloon and brothel.

To combine wine tasting with art, rent e-bikes from Napa Valley Bike Tours and follow the car-free Napa Valley Vine Trail. It winds through two miles of the Rail Arts District, where large-scale murals have transformed former warehouses. Artwork is by internationally recognized artists like Felipe Pantone as well as local talent. Laird Family Estate is just five miles away, where you can settle on the patio and enjoy the valley views with a glass of wine or a full tasting.

While wine put Napa on the map, art is the connective tissue of downtown’s revival and does it by honoring its industrial roots. “A lot of the creativity here comes from the food and wine industries,” says Tim Kelly, artist, designer, and RAD Board member. “We like to think, how can we carry that forward with art? Art, like food and wine, has the unique ability to bring people and communities together for a shared experience.”

Serge Sorokko Gallery brings contemporary art to the heart of downtown.

Serge Sorokko Gallery brings contemporary art to the heart of downtown.

Carve out an afternoon for downtown’s shops and historic buildings, including the Victorian Winship-Smernes Building with its octagonal tower; the 19th-century Napa Mill (home to Sweetie Pies bakery and the superb cocktail bar The Fink); and the stone Beckstoffer Building, now home to Overland Sheepskin Co. The sprawling Serge Sorokko Gallery specializes in contemporary art, while Antiques on Second has an extensive collection of colorful vintage Pyrex. For a uniquely Napa souvenir, stock up on beans at Rancho Gordo, which counts 20,000 people on the waitlist for its monthly bean club.

The historic Napa Mill is home to favorites Sweetie Pies bakery, The Fink cocktail bar, and Angèle.

The historic Napa Mill is home to favorites Sweetie Pies bakery, The Fink cocktail bar, and Angèle.

It would take weeks to eat your way through downtown Napa’s dining scene, which spans the casual Mother’s Tacos to refined French cuisine at Angèle, which feels like a slice of Provence along the Napa River. The sprawling Oxbow Market occupies a converted 1930s tire store and garage turned public market with 22 vendors. Pop in to buy perfectly ripe peaches from Hudson Greens and Goods, or indulge in oysters and charcuterie from other vendors. Head to Con Amor where the Mexican dishes are as bold as the Day of the Dead-inspired murals, or Zuzu for tapas.

Westin Verasa Napa is perfectly situated across from the Napa Valley Wine Train and Oxbow Market, while the Napa Valley Marriott Hotel & Spa, a short Uber ride from downtown, is ideal for families and large groups, with plenty of old-school lawn games. It’s all still unmistakably Napa, just not the Napa you may have pictured.

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