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After spending over 15 years in fashion and digital marketing with a focus on innovative design and emerging brand growth, Li Mandri decided it was time to launch her eponymous label, an accessories line based in New York. She now incorporates the first-hand experience she gained in both industries to MLE, with a focus on sustainability and quality.
Learn more about Emily Li Mandri and her work in today’s DesignHer column.
Carefully crafting a personalized scrunchie, Emily adds the finishing touches that make each MLE piece unique, reflecting her dedication to quality and attention to detail.
aspire design and home: Can you share an example of a project where your perspective as a woman played a significant role in the outcome?
Emily Li Mandri: The aesthetic of my brand is unapologetically feminine — refined and elegant, yet still playful. There is some quirk and surrealism sprinkled in for good measure. There’s a balance between strength and whimsy.
Many of the pieces I design are inspired by my female-identifying perspective. The Gentlewoman’s Agreement collection features a handshake motif. It’s a play off of the term “gentleman’s agreement” where men back in the day would shake hands to seal a deal. And if you look closely, the hands featured in my pieces are actually female hands. The idea behind this piece is women joining together to help each other succeed.
The Goddess Collection is rooted in the idea of women tapping into their innate powers, which we refer to as “divine feminine energy “. These can be activated when the piece is worn. Each piece in this collection has different qualities derived either from the stone or the featured engraved motif. For example, the Juno Earrings feature malachite stone which absorbs negative energy and helps embrace change. The matching Juno Pendant features a peacock feather, which is a symbol of the goddess Juno. The Juno pieces are very popular with mothers.
I have a recurring fried egg motif, which I refer to as the “Oeuf Collection”. I happened to be working on these pieces while the abortion bans started to come into effect, and these pieces serve as a reminder of women’s rights. I believe in protecting our rights as women, and 10% of all proceeds from this collection are donated to Planned Parenthood in an effort to help women continue to have a place to turn to for family planning decisions and support.
adh: Are there any particular themes or messages you aim to convey through your art?
ELM: I think constantly about sustainability, and how what I create impacts the environment. When you’re involved in production on a mass scale, you start to understand the implications and effects of manufacturing. I remember the first time I did a production run with a factory for an Urban Outfitters order, and looking at the remaining fabric scraps on the cutting table. When I asked the factory what they did with them, I discovered they threw them out. Now imagine that happening on a larger scale with hundreds of thousands of factories. And think about the materials being used… a lot of polyester, materials that don’t biodegrade. “Throwing out” just means it’s out of your sight, but it’s not breaking down, it’s ending up in a landfill or washing up on a beach somewhere, and it will remain there forever.
There are currently enough garments that exist in the world for the next six generations of people. We need to be mindful of what we’re creating and the waste that’s generated from the process.
Emily arranges one of her signature bridal handbags, showcasing her thoughtful approach to design for special moments. The elegant bow adds a touch of whimsy, true to MLE’s playful, refined aesthetic.
adh: Can you discuss any female artists or designers who have influenced your work?
ELM: I tend to be inspired by the surreal, I’m not afraid to get a little weird. In terms of fashion, I love Schiaparelli, Marni, and Prada, which also all happen to be founded by Italian women. They are all elegant, refined, and have strong aesthetics, but there is a bit of quirk mixed in. Perhaps it’s an Italian sensibility. It’s my dream one day to be able to collaborate with one of these fashion houses in some way. I saw a Frida Kahlo exhibit a few years ago at the Brooklyn Museum that featured her outfits, many of which were portrayed in the paintings she created. It was interesting to learn she actually would wear these outfits when she painted, and you could see remnant bits of paint on her garments. This blew my mind, the idea of wearing nice clothing when making your art, and the full circle of artistic expression. I need to be comfortable when I’m working in the studio to be able to fully focus on what I’m making, which usually means I’m not wearing the most stylish ensemble. I strive to be able to show up in style when I’m in my studio.
“Creativity takes courage.” — Henri Matisse
adh: How do you ensure sustainability and ethical practices in your craft?
ELM: With accessories, there is less pressure to release a new collection every season, which allows me the freedom to create more evergreen pieces. The majority of my pieces are made to order, and we do that to operate as consciously as possible. We keep all our scraps from fabric and jewelry production, and we look for ways to incorporate the remnants into something new. Very rarely does something get thrown away.
When sourcing, try to limit waste and pick ecofriendly or biodegradable materials. I use remnant fabrics from the New York garment district, which are leftover fabrics from other companies’ production runs. Any scraps left over we keep and figure out other ways to use them. For instance, I have been developing a new earring style that uses our scraps of fabric.
The casting studio I work with uses recycled metals, and the hair clips I create are made with cellulose acetate, a plant-based material. If I do need to do a production run, we minimize the quantities and make small batches to ensure we do not have excess inventory.
Besides the actual pieces we make, we also spend a lot of time figuring out how to make the packaging sustainable. We aren’t perfect, but we are making progress. For example, with the use of polybags during manufacturing and shipping, we have been able to source a cornstarch based material that looks like clear plastic but it’s 100% biodegradable.
It’s important to pay attention to all aspects of sustainability, not just the planet, but the people too. Everyone that works with MLE is paid above minimum wage. We also work in a way that’s very flexible, so my team can pick their own hours to work and even work remotely if/when possible. I hire so my team can grow with me and the business for the long-term. I also prefer to hire locally because it directly benefits the community.
The feathered Nodo Mini Clutch in noir, exemplifies Emily’s bold design style. The balance of dramatic elements with a feminine twist captures the essence of MLE’s collection.
adh: Can you share any upcoming projects or collaborations that you’re excited about?
ELM: I recently opened a store for MLE in Saugerties, in partnership with my friend Kym who curates vintage clothing under the brand Chambers Vintage. Together we are focused on creating a sustainable fashion shopping destination in the Hudson Valley, as well as building a community of like-minded small business owners.
I have been developing a line of small leather goods with remnant leather I sourced from New York before the pandemic. I have been wanting to do this for a while. We are making wallets, key chains, and dog accessories. I’m very excited to release these in the fall.
We recently launched a bridal handbag collection which is being well received. The Hudson Valley is a major wedding destination, and we are seeing brides and their bridal parties coming into the store and being drawn to the bags.
I also am releasing a new earring collection this fall using the scraps of fabric remaining from production of our scrunchies. It’s taken a few years to design and develop custom hardware for these earrings, and I’m very proud of the final result. They are all made with hypoallergenic stainless steel.
Whenever I develop a new category or product, it’s not only about the product itself, but how it will be displayed in a store, how it will be photographed for a campaign, and also from the customer perspective, what the experience will be when they receive it and store the piece.
With all these aspects, maintaining precision and high quality are crucial. These details can take a long time to flesh out, and require patience. It’s all about getting it right. I obsess over all these aspects of the brand experience, and it’s rewarding to see the customer appreciate these details when they come into the store and connect with my pieces.
adh: What do you hope your legacy will be in the world of high-end artisanal crafts?
ELM: I like to think I am part of the “slow-fashion” movement. The idea of taking the time to thoughtfully produce high-quality pieces that will last a lifetime. Conscious consumption- deciding to purchase something because it will enhance your wardrobe and you will wear it all the time. But also, in terms of my aesthetic, maintaining a strong but playful feminine point of view.
Hopefully, my work is helping to raise the standards of sustainability in fashion. I believe that sustainability does not have to be limited to one aesthetic or a small specific audience. It should be a goal across styles and brands, and at MLE we aim to demonstrate that you can use sustainable practices without sacrificing elegance. We aspire that one day sustainability will be the standard of the fashion industry, not a special feature or a marketing term that needs to be pointed out.
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