To really experience Marrekech is to be immersed in its colors, vibrancy, artisanal heritage and lush courtyards. Think saturated colors, beautiful textiles, hand-crafted details and bedrooms filled with art and pieces of classic, midcentury design.
El Fenn is a boutique hotel in the heart of the Medina that opened its doors in 2004 with only six bedrooms, soon gaining a cult following for its uniqueness and authenticity, and soon after, expanding into neighboring properties, forming a cluster of delightful riads, hideaway nooks, terraces and luxuriant gardens.
The story began with two friends on the hunt for a small riad to buy as a holiday home. It was in 2002 when Vanessa Branson and Howell James walked into the almost ruined courtyard of one of Marrakech’s formerly great private homes. They instantly fell in love with the atmospheric house, which was being sold with three smaller neighboring homes. They soon realized that their holiday home was going to become so much more…
At the time, only a handful of Marrakech’s riads had been converted to small hotels, and Branson and James knew they wanted to open a place offering something different – a “home away from home” retreat that combined great food and service with the spirit of the building’s past, yet with a contemporary decorative twist.
During the two-year renovation, local craftsmen used traditional techniques to breathe new life into the building, creating walls, baths and bed frames using polished lime plaster, renovating original tile and restoring carved cedar ceilings. Retro furniture, sourced from local flea markets, combined with one-off bespoke pieces, creates a unique interior.
Over the years, the owners have continued to renovate, extending the rooftop and adding a new pool. Traditional artisanal techniques, including hand-crafted Zellige tiling, tadelakt plaster and stitched leather floors appear throughout.
El Fenn now stretches across a dozen interconnected riads, spans over 2,700 square meters of the Marrakech Medina and boasts 31 rooms and suites. The roof terrace is El Fenn’s most popular spot – with its 1,300 square meters, daybeds and lounging areas, guests can enjoy a close-up view of the iconic Koutoubia Mosque as well as the rooftops of the city.
El Fenn’s drama and decorative abundance have earned it a reputation as one of Marrakech’s most beautiful hotels. Its decor is always evolving: paintings, colors, fabrics, furniture and spaces are constantly being repositioned, reinvigorated or reinvented.
Branson, a collector and gallerist, always makes sure that art and culture are a key thread in the fabric of life at El Fenn. She first brought pieces from her own private art collection to hang in the hotel when it opened, and today displays works throughout bedrooms and public spaces by contemporary artists, including Fred Pollock and Antony Gormley. Guests also see photography, sculptures and paintings as part of the rolling exhibitions El Fenn hosts several times a year.
The boutique hotel was also founded on the belief that luxury can also be relaxed and authentic. Despite all this growth and change, the core of El Fenn remains connection and community.
“Our team is local, our artisans come from the souks and our food from nearby. We’re part of a community, and we want to share that with all our guests. We also aim to be as sustainable as possible, so we don’t fly in food and stopped using plastic bottles four years ago. Our bathroom products are made from local, natural ingredients and provided in large refillable containers,” Branson explains. “This, we believe, is the future of travel.”
Despite all this evolution, though, the spirit of El Fenn remains: it’s a place to kick back and enjoy the tranquility of an abundance of hidden spaces before stepping outside to soak up the atmosphere of a city that’s seduced everyone from Yves Saint Laurent to Winston Churchill.
Photography by Cecile Perrinet Lhermitte.
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