From jewelry maker to textile artist, British-born Rosemary Hallgarten has always celebrated the rich tactile sensuality of her materials. It is her relationship and passion for the materials that inspire her collections and have made her a renowned source for custom luxury textiles that effectively touch all senses. Rosemary is the pioneer of bringing alpaca rugs and fabrics to the US; she has developed and created alpaca textiles with her artisans in Peru for over 15 years.
Rosemary is a second-generation craftsperson, daughter of renowned rug artist Gloria Finn, who partnered with Milton Avery, Theodoros Stamos, Hans Mueller, Gio Ponti, and Anni Albers to interpret their paintings as floor covering. Her collection of rugs, fabrics, and accessories reflects her varied inspirations, from ancient to modern textiles to art, furniture, and fashion.
Andrew Joseph: What inspired you to be a designer?
Rosemary Hallgarten: I would have to say my mother, in a very symbiotic way. We lived in Beirut when I was very young where she studied archeology and also designed jewelry. We used to hunt on the beaches for Roman mosaics and beads (but don’t tell anyone!). Then when we moved to London my mother introduced me to the very vibrant and innovative applied arts scene there. As a consequence, I have always made things with my hands and had an urge to create. When I was very young I was most interested in jewelry and used to visit hardware stores and gather interesting colored copper wires, or the curly plastic that used to be on telephones and turned them into necklaces.
Later, I began to search for a more textural medium, something closer to painting and my mother shared her past making hand-hooked rugs in Italy for many celebrated artists of the late 50s and early 60s such as Gino Ponti, Milton Avery and Anni Albers. She still had her original tufting needle and once I started exploring the medium I was hooked, so to speak!
Products show: Glaze Rug, Antoinette Fabric, Arrabelle Pillows, Cachet Fabric, Ombre Alpaca Fabric. Photographer: Chris Everard
AJ: What is your three-word philosophy?
RH: Experience of texture.
AJ: How do you approach a new design project?
RH: Over the years I have amassed a collection of treasures from my travels, be they artisanal plates, African baskets, captivating paintings or handmade books. These pieces can serve as a muse, sparking ideas for innovative techniques, patterns, color or texture combinations. At the same time, I am always working on developments with mills; my studio is full of rug or fabric developments, even just yarns that I return to time and again until one or two become really sticky in my mind and I know they will be the basis of a new collection.
AJ: What is your favorite cocktail?
RH: The “OG”! It is a Pisco (A Peruvian spirit) cocktail we developed a few years ago for a party we were hosting. The idea was to create a drink with the essence of our brand identity. We infuse it with lime and a little ginger beer and of course a sprig of Rosemary!
Products Shown: Glacier Rug, Daydream Fabric – Pura Undyed, Cachet Fabric. Photographer: Chris Everard
AJ: Can you tell us about a design trend you are excited about?
RH: Besides the increased focus on sustainability which is so important for all of us, I love that I am seeing so many more design collaborations between different designers from the same or different industries.
AJ: What is the best advice you’ve received as a designer?
RH: Don’t give clients too much choice! As a creative person my temptation at the beginning of my business was to say to every client I met – “here is an idea, and you can do anything you like.” We all love choices, but edited ones. Designers don’t have time to create a lot of ideas from just a nugget. That is what they come to me for. That is the value of building a brand, so designers and clients can come to you knowing that they will have a curated choice.
AJ: What is your favorite place to find inspiration?
RH: It is very hard to pick one place that I go back to for inspiration. I really find inspiration in anything that is creatively driven, especially fashion retrospectives for example the Alexander McQueen at the Met or the recent Chanel show at the V&A in London. If I had to pick, it would be Venice, cliche as that is. It inspires me just to think about it as a city with all its hidden secrets. From the moment I first went there and discovered the most exquisite multi-layered piece of 200-year-old velvet in a tiny shop I was hooked. It is a city teeming with life and movement and history and modern twists that really get me creatively excited.
Products Shown: Bardot Fabric, Paola Fabric, Abacus Alpaca Bouclé, Camille Fabric Photographer: Chris Everard
AJ: If you weren’t a designer, what would you be and why?
RH: This is totally out there but I think I am a master sandwich maker, especially with scraps from the fridge! I would love to have a little sandwich shop where I make really innovative sandwiches! Otherwise, I would be a travel writer!
AJ: What is your favorite aspect of your job?
RH: I love so much of what I do and feel so grateful to be doing it. Most of all I love working with a designer to come up with a custom piece, to feel that creative spark as we align on an idea and then seeing it all the way through to the final product.
AJ: Favorite design-related quote?
RH: “If you do not expect the unexpected, you will not find it” – Wendell Castle
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