Melinda Marquardt, Founder and CEO of The Vale London, joins us this week to discuss the James Collection 2024. Unveiled earlier this year at Paris Deco-Off, the series features 13 new designs in wallpapers, fabrics and trims, all paying homage to a personal memory from Marquardt’s past.
From left to right: Mini Deco in Terracotta, Kylian Check in Terracotta, Mademoiselle trim in Latte, Han wallpaper in Terracotta.
Raymond Paul Schneider: When did you first start developing this new collection?
Melinda Marquardt: The initial drawings for James began three years before it launched in January this year at Paris Deco-Off. This collection had the longest development time by far, as the trims are so unique. It took a long time to source the right materials and get the engineering right, and there was a lot of back-and-forth with our artisans to ensure the quality was right.
I still cannot believe that It took a full three years! When the designs finally came back perfect, it was one of the best days of my design career. I didn’t think we were ever going to get there. The first step is a simple pencil drawing, followed by a painting to include colors, and then it gets scanned in to create the repeat and design tile. I also create product renderings to communicate with the manufacturers more efficiently. Then, there was a long process of multiple samples until the designs were exactly what I envisioned and designed.
RPS: What was your initial inspiration, and where did the ideas come from?
MM: Each piece in the collection has its own story. The overarching theme with JAMES is the art of storytelling — personal memories of family and travel. The Noreen and Shaw stripe wallpapers were inspired by my grandparents’ home in Marco Island, Florida, in the 1990s. The hibiscus flowers growing outside their home inspired this retro design. My grandfather and his travels to Peking in the 1970s also inspired Han. I found an original document amongst his belongings depicting a procession to the temple of heaven after he passed. It was an emotional discovery for my family and one I knew I wanted to embody in this collection.
From left to right: Kylian Check in Parchment, Sizzle Tape in Autumn, and Noreen Check in Latte.
RPS: Please describe your overall creative and design process.
MM: This collection utilized many different processes. Mademoiselle – our lace and vegan leather trim, was initially designed using an old-fashioned paper collage. I used a laser cutting machine to get the exact lace details I wanted and then layered on each piece to create the final design. I’m always trying new techniques to create designs. I made 3-D models of all the trims using various yarns and beads. It was very arts and crafts driven based on tactility and feeling.
RPS: Did you have a specific audience or theme in mind?
MM: At The Vale London, I always try to push the boundaries of what our artisans can do. Farrah, our most opulent trim, uses only the highest quality tortoiseshell glass beads, which we had to import into India from Europe. I wouldn’t say I like being limited by manufacturers, as I believe the ultimate goal of luxury designs is to push past the limitations of a supplier and go the extra mile to ensure that only the best materials are used. We will make or source them elsewhere if they are unavailable. Farrah is the perfect example because we utilize three different techniques: Indian zardozi embroidery, a full crewel background, and specialty beads. This creates more complexity but is always worth it.
Shaw Stripe Wallpaper in Pine
RPS: Please describe the methods, tools, and materials you used to develop and prototype this design.
MM: I always start my designs as pencil drawings. Then, sometimes, a colored pencil drawing or immediate painting if it’s large scale. Then scans and Adobe Creative Suite to create repeat, tile, and recolor. Sometimes, I will print these off and paint on top of them again to create multiple deep layers of color. I also use collage, 3-D modeling using clay, or even hand embroidery to make prototypes. I also do screen printing and block printing at home on a small scale.
RPS: Did you utilize a new technique or technology to conceptualize or create this product? If yes, please share the details.
MM: Butabu — 3-D printing — new technology. The ground is crushed mica, and the final design is 3-D printed on top to create true texture. Zardozi is an ancient Persian embroidery technique usually used for ceremonial wear, like wedding dresses. I wanted to use it in a more modern way, and it influenced both my Elizabeth and Farrah tape trim. I also utilized AI in some cases to help with my rendering. Once the design was completed, I used AI to make 3-D models of the product to send to mills.
From left to right: Butabu in Obsidian, Farrah Trim in Silver, Adobe in Parchment, Mademoiselle Trim in Silver, Kylian Check in Parchment, Han Wallpaper in Obsidian and Kylian Check in Obsidian.
RPS: Please describe any challenges that affected the design and perhaps steered you to an entirely new final design.
MM: I was desperate to create a ricrac tape in which all the ricracs were lined up next to each other, with each squiggle laid into the other for a seamless rainbow of ricrac. Ricrac tape is not all the same size and shape, so it was impossible to engineer. I adapted the design to utilize that ricrac wave, using appliquéd flax threads and hand beading instead. It turned out beautifully, and I’m glad we had so many issues with it initially because, without those design challenges, we would never have had this amazing final result.
RPS: Describe your overall brand DNA and Ethos.
MM: The Vale London has core principles on how we always work:
Sustainability, we always rely on natural fibers as much as possible and utilize recycled materials depending on the design. But our goal is to always source only the most luxurious and unique goods and materials. The Vale is 100% designed in-house and exclusive, you will never find these designs anywhere else. And most importantly, work shouldn’t feel like work; our company ethos is to always create an enjoyable environment not only for us but for our partners, showrooms and clients.
Imagery courtesy of The Vale London.
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