Travel CV: Finding Solitude In The Venetian Lagoon

A century ago, Isola delle Rose offered healing air; today it offers the same restorative spirit in a new form.

A century ago, Isola delle Rose offered healing air; today it offers the same restorative spirit in a new form.

If you’re planning to visit one of the most popular places on the planet, you need a strategy. When that destination is Venice, an elegant solution is the JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. Set on a private island in the Venetian lagoon, the resort offers the best of both worlds. It’s just a 20-minute boat ride from Piazza San Marco, but the lush island is a world away from crowds. It also provides rarities in Venice: vast amounts of space, and multiple pools.

Guests are treated to a cinematic arrival via private water taxi to the JW Marriott Venice.

Guests are treated to a cinematic arrival via private water taxi to the JW Marriott Venice.

The man-made, 40-acre Isola delle Rose dates back to 1870 and was the site of a pulmonary clinic, chosen for its fresh sea breezes. The first patients arrived in 1914, and the island was home to a hospital, a Romanesque revival style villa for the director, and a cavana, a Venetian shelter for boats. A few years later, a church was built as well as a social club. After the clinic closed in 1980, the island lay dormant until it opened as a JW Marriott in 2015 following a thoughtful renovation and expansion led by Matteo Thun & Partners.

Now celebrating its 10th anniversary, the resort remains a testament to Thun’s vision, which drew inspiration from the island’s heritage as a place of healing as well as the shifting colors of the lagoon. Wellness is woven into every aspect of the resort, through an abundance of light and the embrace of water. Thun and his team restored the island’s historic buildings while adding new structures such as the stand-alone spa, crafted in brick and glass to seamlessly blend in.

First impressions set the tone and arriving by private water taxi offers a taste of Venetian glamor.

First impressions set the tone and arriving by private water taxi offers a taste of Venetian glamor.

But first: your arrival, which sets the tone for a stay. The JW Marriott Venice experience begins at the airport. Guests are whisked via private water taxi to the resort, gliding across the lagoon in sleek, varnished boats, a fittingly glamorous introduction to Venice.

Accommodations range from rooms and suites in the main building to stand-alone villas with private terraces or gardens. The largest, the two-bedroom Villa Rose, was once the hospital director’s residence and comes with its own pool. Interiors are understated and elegant, with neutral palettes accented by blues and greens, and stone bathrooms are designed with quiet restraint.

Each room and suite offers a contemporary take on Venetian style: airy, refined and rooted in the colors of the lagoon.

Each room and suite offers a contemporary take on Venetian style: airy, refined and rooted in the colors of the lagoon.

The tasting menus at Agli Amici Dopolavoro showcase produce grown right on the island.

The tasting menus at Agli Amici Dopolavoro showcase produce grown right on the island.

Beyond the accommodation, the island itself is part of the magic and set to the soundtrack of buzzing cicadas. Lush gardens, olive groves and sculpture-dotted lawns invite exploration and relaxation. You might see a chef picking fresh herbs and vegetables from the on-site garden, and stumble upon a blanket laid out for a “chic nic” or a Missoni pop-up boutique.

The hotel’s spa is the largest in Venice and features an indoor-outdoor pool with lagoon views.

The hotel’s spa is the largest in Venice and features an indoor-outdoor pool with lagoon views.

The property also balances style with being family-friendly. Some of the most glamorous places on property are the adult-only infinity rooftop pool, overlooking the lagoon, and the spa, which is the largest in Venice. Carve out time for a treatment or just buy access to the hydrotherapy circuit, which includes an indoor-outdoor pool. Families are well cared for with a dedicated pool and an adjacent pizza restaurant as well as an open-air cinema.

The most stylish way to arrive for dinner is via private water taxi to Agli Amici Dopolavoro at the JW Marriott Venice.

The most stylish way to arrive for dinner is via private water taxi to Agli Amici Dopolavoro at the JW Marriott Venice.

As expected in Italy, the food is a major draw here. The lavish buffet breakfast at Cucina Daily Restaurant ranges from made-to-order omelettes to lemon ricotta cake. When it’s time for an aperitivo, head to the Sagra Rooftop Restaurant and Bar to watch the sunset before tucking into classic Italian fare with a twist. To savor a long, leisurely fine-dining experience, book a table at Agli Amici Dopolavoro, helmed by two Michelin-starred chef Emanuele Scarello, where some diners may arrive by private boat. The two tasting menus celebrate the bounty of the lagoon and the surrounding gardens.

And to carry a taste of the island’s spirit home, the resort produces its own Isola delle Rose extra virgin olive oil, pressed from a century-old grove and enriched by mineral-rich soil, a distinctive flavor found nowhere else in Venice.

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